Is the title I will use if I ever write a book about nickel allergies. If you have this allergy, chances are you have been told to “stay away from pigments.” But, exactly what does that mean? Well, it basically means makeup.

I remember the first visit I had with a dermatologist (who is not my current dermatologist). She took one look at my face, laughed, and said “well I guess you won’t be wearing makeup anymore.” Now I know that people have much more serious problems than makeup, but if you are someone who likes makeup, it could be a very big deal to you. I will not tell you to have a pity party, that’s never good advice. But it’s ok to feel somewhat upset. Your feelings are valid. They are not silly or stupid.

If you are someone with a nickel allergy you do have choices. Some people will choose to stay away from makeup all together. Maybe you will choose to wear iron oxide free makeup. (You are definitely limited, but it does exist.) Maybe you will choose to try some regular makeup…you may not have a reaction. It depends on how sensitive you are. I found that my allergy actually got a little less sensitive over the years. You may want to try iron oxide free makeup for a few months, and than try regular makeup again.

I personally have very bad reactions to some eyeshadow palettes, and some I can wear with no problem. They all have iron oxides. So why is this? My theory is the mix of pigments in the formula. Yes, they all have iron oxides, but how much of the formula is iron oxides, and how much is other pigments?

In any case, if you are diagnosed with a nickel allergy, I think it is important to be able to read makeup ingredients, at least when it comes to pigments. I recently uploaded a video to You Tube about this. You can watch it here if you are interested….My Nickel Allergy Journey Part 3 – What’s in Makeup Anyway? (And a Sigma Unboxing) – YouTube

Basically pigments fall into 2 categories….organic and inorganic. For makeup purposes, the difference is solubility. We will start with the organic.

Organic Pigments

Organic pigments basically fall into 2 categories….dyes and lakes. You will see dyes in all kinds of stuff. If you have ever seen FDC, followed by a color, followed by a number, that’s a dye. The FDC (Food, Drugs, Cosmetics) represents what the dye is approved for. For example, D&C Red 30 is a red dye used for drugs and cosmetics. You will see dyes in all kinds of cosmetics, but only a few are approved for use in eyeshadow.

A lake is a dye which is linked to an inorganic substrate. (Usually titanium dioxide or zinc oxide). I have heard of some people with nickel allergies having reactions to lakes. This makes me suspect that they can also be linked to iron oxides. Lakes show up in all kinds of cosmetics.

Organic pigments require certification by the FDA. Inorganic, or mineral pigments do not, as they are considered safer.

Inorganic Pigments

Inorganic pigments are what give makeup 99% of it’s color. Of course this includes iron oxides.

Before we get to iron oxides, I’ll briefly mention ultramarines. They are component of the rock lapis lazuli. Therefore, it makes sense that they are usually shades of blue, although they are sometimes also in shades of violet. You will see them in some cosmetics such as eyeshadow. They are banned from being used as an ingredient in lip products (at least in the United States.)

Now we come to iron oxides. If you have a nickel allergy, you know that this is your natural enemy. Or is it?

Iron oxides are naturally occurring in all different colors, with a variety of shades being produced synthetically. Pretty much all eyeshadow, and any other makeup for that matter, contains iron oxides.

Finally, there is mica. When you think mica….think shimmer. And a bigger variety of colors than we as humans can comprehend. When mica is in it’s natural form it is transparent. Therefore, when mica is used in makeup, it has to be mixed with something. Usually….you guessed it….it’s iron oxides. It is also very often mixed with titanium dioxide. Sometimes it is just mixed with titanium dioxide, but that is less common.

How Are Pigments Used?

If you have ever come across a chat of nickel allergy sufferers, you know that some of us can still wear makeup (some of it anyway). How is this possible? Well, when iron oxides are in makeup, they are usually not straight iron oxides. Each color you see in makeup is actually a mix of a bunch of other colors to make that shade. There might be one or two main colors and 3 or 4 minor or shading colors. So it stands to reason that formula to formula, or even shade to shade within the same palette, may have a different mix of pigments.

The Colorspiracy Theory

There is nothing like a made up word. This is my own theory based on my research over the past year. I know that there are a few eyeshadows out there that I can apply and within a few hours, I have to get them off my eyes. I also know that there are a few eyeshadows that I never get a reaction from. It all depends. And since I know that I am allergic to “pigment,” it must depend on that.

So when a shade is mostly iron oxides, my reaction is at it’s worst. I think this explains why I have such an intense reaction to eyeliner. You don’t have to mix anything with black to get black. It’s just black iron oxides. So how do I explain mascara? ( I don’t react to mascara). I think it may be as simple as the fact that mascara really doesn’t come into too close contact with the skin. Other makeup contains iron oxides, but not enough to make me react. Eyeshadow formulas probably have the most, because eyeshadow has the most pigment. (Lipstick also, but lipstick contains a lot of dyes.) It could also be that the skin around your eyes is very sensitive. And there you have it. The Colorspiracy Theory🌈😉.

Someday, I would love to put this theory to the test. To form a community of people with a nickel allergy who still want to wear makeup. See if we react to the same things. Of course a lot of people with this allergy are simply not interested. Who can blame them? A few of these reactions, and you may not even want to walk down the makeup aisle at the drug store. For now I am a sample size of one.

In closing, as with all things in life you have to do what is right for you. Some people will say good riddance to makeup. Some people will choose to wear iron oxide free, while some will choose to make their own. And some of us will just try stuff, see what happens and post it on a blog in what has become a “pigment obsession.” Maybe that will be the title of my second book.

Do you still wear makeup?